The Day of the Iguanas

Galapagos Islands Days 3

Stepping onto an island here in the Galapagos is a bit like stepping into Jurassic Park— wildlife around every corner, much of it looking decidedly prehistoric. On day 3 we land on Fernandina, one of the 19 islands in the archipelago, and stop in Espinoza Point to see the Galapagos Marine Iguanas. 

Spot the Iguana :)

It’s a cacophony of lizards, a riot of reptilian skin, with iguanas crammed in across the rock platform as we make our way, awe-struck, between those still lounging on the shore, basking in the warmth of the morning sun, and those who have sufficiently recharged and headed out to sea to feast on the algae growing on the rocks below the surface. 

Beady eyes barely blink as all 16 of us amble past in a flurry of clicking cameras, initially a little trepidatious lest one of them decides to take a run at us. It doesn’t take long before we inch closer, going for our best National Geographic shots, dodging the whip like tails that never seem to move, laughing as one cheeky lizard tries to hitch a ride to the water on his mate’s back.

Way back, when land iguanas arrived on the islands and food was scarce, they developed the ability to swim so they could find a new source of food. Later in the afternoon I get my big girl pants on, don a snorkel and slip into the refreshingly cool water where I forget my ingrained fear of sharks to watch the iguanas feed. 

When I look down there’s a Galapagos Turtle swimming right underneath me, his superbly patterned shell blending with the sunlit rocks, his leathery flippers steering him through the water as he rises to the surface to grab a breath and we come eye to eye. Back under, a team of electric rainbow fish hover around the turtle, while brilliantly coloured coral trout and an assortment of other beauties dart in and out of rocks.

A Sea Lion glides by, her sleek body so much more agile in the water than on the land where they gallump along with the aid of their back flippers that act like legs. But I miss the antics of this curious creature as he swims around a few of our fellow travellers, circling them and coming right up to their masks. 

I’m pretty pleased with myself as I climb back aboard the inflatable panga, managing not to get eaten by a shark, in fact not even seeing one. Continuing on in the adventurous spirit I hop into a kayak in the afternoon at Tagus Cove on Isabella Island for a paddle around the bay. This time it’s mainly birdlife — a gaggle of squawking baby Galapagos Pelicans and a heap of adults nesting along the cliff face. The pelicans here are different to Australian ones, with a stripe of rich brown velvet stretching from the top of their head, down the back of their neck to meet a set of tawny wings that fluff up as they primp and preen. We also spot a lazing Sea Lion, a few penguins and some Boobies doing their dive bombing thing into the water in search of a snack.

Just chillin’

A Flightless Cormorant - uses those puny wings as flippers underwater.

Later, we opt for a lazy afternoon onboard while the rest of the crew do the walk to the volcano. We’ve already walked 3 volcanoes and since our trusty guide Milton assured me there'd be no animal sightings, we chose a cold beer and jacuzzi over more exertion. We also score some dinner tastings from our chef Darwin who is manning the BBQ so there’s zero FOMO when the group returns.

Show me a hot tub and I’m in it!

Dinner is a delicious BBQ buffet under the stars, chatting to our fellow passengers from the US, Canada and Holland. There’s an easy camaraderie now we’ve been together for a few days sharing the magical sights of the Galapagos, bonding over exotic animal sightings. We drift off as the boat motors steadily towards our next stop, the gentle sway of the ocean rocking us into a dreamy sleep. 

Day 4: Giant Tortoises and Dolphins

As on any wildlife adventure, there’s never any guarantee that you’re going to spot the animals listed in the itinerary but Milton seems confident we’ll come across some Giant Galapagos Tortoises as we stumble out of the panga onto the black sand of Urbina Bay.

Treading carefully past the dips denoting turtle nests, we follow the tree covered path, dodging the Poison Apple trees that provide food for the tortoises but are toxic to humans. Not far along we spy our first tortoise, a juvenile female according to our guide, which since they have a lifespan of around 150 years could put her at 30 or 40! One of these statue-like creatures has been known to live to 201!

We tiptoe past — as delicate as a group of 17 people can be — and meet larger versions of the species further along the trail. In one clearing there are 4 of them munching on low growing plants, a veritable smorgasbord of tortoises. We’d seen them in the Breeding Sanctuary but seeing them in the wild is even better.

There’s also a couple of burly looking land iguanas, bigger than their sea-faring relatives but equally as laconic, their zippered mouths curling slightly at the corners as if they’re amused by the gawking humans looking at therm through camera lenses. At each stop I’ve tried to remind myself to take a few snaps and then just be in the moment but it’s so hard to go for that next great shot. Luckily the wildlife has been so prolific there’s been plenty of opportunity to observe the animals in between photo shoots.

Back on the boat we head off to our next destination where there’s the slim chance we MIGHT see flamingoes. I’ve been mesmerised by these lanky-legged pink birds since I was a child, and have a vague memory of watching one roam the gardens at Taronga Zoo. Seeing them enmasse in African waterholes in documentaries piqued my interest and when I heard they also reside in the Galapagos, that sealed the deal.

In the meantime, the Captain alerts us to a pod of dolphins swimming at the front of the ship. We immediately vacate the breakfast table and follow directions to the bow where we’re greeted with dozens of these playful animals swimming alongside the boat, dipping and diving, twirling and jumping in a totally exuberant display. It’s smiles all round as we ooh and ah and video. Gripping my phone, I hang over the railing to film them, so close and clear and joyous I’m completely captivated.

So much fun!

I opt out of the late morning snorkel, satisfied with yesterday’s effort and nervous about seeing a shark. Sitting alone on the boat (apart from the crew) gives a pleasant breathing space but I’ll be first on land this afternoon in an attempt to find a flamingo, so watch this space.