Penguins and Seals and Whales. Oh My!

We’re halfway through our Antarctic adventure and just like Dorothy in the land of Oz I feel like I’ve arrived in an exotic land filled with strange and wondrous creatures, and an eye-wateringly magical landscape.

The last couple of days have been a carnival of zodiac rides and land visits where we’ve managed to get up close and personal with penguins, seals and whales, all while sailing through some of the most majestic scenery on earth. There have been so many pinch-me moments I couldn’t possibly describe them all here so I’ll share just a few of them …

Pinch Me 1

The zodiac bobs and sways as our guide Malcolm, a Dr Harry style ornithologist and passionate twitcher, motors us in for a closer look at a group of Gentoo penguins splashing on the rocky shoreline. As the cute little guys flap and hop, the ‘rock’ right in front of us begins to rise up out of the water, only it’s not a rock! It’s a leopard seal, one of the main predators around here (apart from Orcas who like to dine on leopard seals), lurking only a metre or two away from the apparently carefree Gentoos. While I know it’s all about the circle of life (thank you Sir David and Mufasa) I metaphorically cross every limb that we will not be witness to a murder. The penguins barely blink an eye as the seal lowers himself back into the water and disappears, and I breathe a sigh of relief. Back on board I hear of a group who were witness to some carnage so at least one of the boisterous birds failed to move fast enough. We did see a few ‘flying’ up and out of the water in a behaviour called porpoising which often means they’re being chased by a leopard seal, some of whom like to dine out three times a day. How any of the penguins survive their full fifteen year life span with enemies like that is a mystery and while I admire the skill and stealth of the seals I’m team penguin, all the way.

A lone Weddell seal lazes on a rock shelf outside Wordie House, an abandoned British research station established here at the Argentine Islands Station in 1947. Mainly used for meteorology it housed 4-5 people and stands on the foundations of the original building which was destroyed by a Tsunami in 1946. The building is now a museum of sorts with tins of food, papers, dog sleds and furniture all set up as it would have been back in the day. We’re visiting in near perfect conditions of brilliant sunshine and almost no wind but I can imagine the bleakness of a winter here, looking out at the angry landscape through windows hammered by snow and ice. 

Meanwhile the Weddell has barely moved, other than to lift his head occasionally and flop back down again as boatloads of people come ashore to visit the hut. Weddells eat fish and plankton (not cute penguins) so they’re higher up the likeability list, along with the Crabeater Seals who eat small crustaceans.

Back in the boat we glide through the clearest water I’ve ever seen and gaze up at mountains covered in decades of compacted snow. The crew know to steer clear of certain spots where an overhang or crevasse could mean an avalanche at any moment. This might be an expedition cruise but we’re not here to push our luck that far. And there’s a delicious buffet lunch waiting for us back on the ship.

Pinch Me 2

Glaciers at Plenau Bay. So amazing I’m going to attempt to describe it in a post all of its own.

Pinch Me 3

Champagne in the hot tub surrounded by towering snow-covered mountains. Nuff said!

Pinch Me 4

Sailing through the Lemeire Channel at sunset. Also known as ‘Kodak Alley’ due to the steep cliffs and mirrored mountains, it’s not always possible to access due to annoying icebergs sometimes blocking the entrance. While there was one skulking around today the Captain managed to do what he does best and sneak through the gap, which I have to say was a lot wider than the expedition leader, lovely though she is, lead us to believe, but why let the truth get in the way of a good story, right?

One thing she was 100 percent accurate about was the spectacular scenery, with a bonus of breaching whales. I couldn’t keep the smile off my face and as we dined outdoors and watched the sky over the white mountains turn peach then strawberry then tangerine, and a delicate yellow half-moon hovered above the peaks I sent a prayer of gratitude out to the universe. Being ‘truly blessed’ has become a cliche of sorts but it’s the only way to sum up my gratitude for being here in the midst of so much natural beauty.

Pinch Me 5

Standing less than a metre away from Gentoo Penguins on Damoy Point. 

I thought being a few metres away from the gorgeous creatures in a boat was amazing, but having to step out of the way of them as they waddle up and check us out is totally mind blowing. There are quite a few chicks here, many of them still moulting even though it’s late in the season. At around four months old they’re a mix of couldn’t-care-less and curious, some laying down asleep while others approach and have a sticky beak at the red-coated tourists pointing a variety of devices in their direction. One fat, furry baby chases its mother up the hill when she refuses to provide any more food. Others strut around in gangs of three and some go on parade across the rocks like a gang of teenagers out on the prowl on a Saturday night. 

We tear ourselves away to walk over the hill to another old hut, this one built in 1975 as a transit facility and airport, and to provide shelter for scientists and researchers heading to bases further south.

On our way back we stop to chat to professional twitcher/team member Mal, and we’re joined by a young Gentoo who enjoys the conversation so much he hangs around for a good ten minutes, eavesdropping. Seeing these birds in their natural habitat is something I’ll never forget. It’s a privilege to be in their presence and watch them interact in real life rather than on a screen.

Bonus Pinch Me

No. I did not do the Polar Plunge. Call me a coward but the idea of jumping into a freezing black  sea on the end of a rope when the air temperature is minus one and the water is a cool zero, is not my idea of a good time. But John did brave the waters, buoyed by the tequila shots on offer both before and after, and apparently he came out exhilarated and energised. 

Good for him. I’ll stick to warm bubbles, a round tub, and a bottomless glass of champers.